So I know how to make a Scots person happy.
Scot: “Why did you come to Scotland?”
Me: “Well, it was either the UK or Australia. I chose the UK because I wanted to travel around Europe. Then I chose Scotland because I heard that the Scottish are nicer than the English (people).”
Then, I left a beaming Scotsman and went to lunch.
It was the year 2013, I had just moved to Glasgow to further my studies. I had always heard about the rainy days in Scotland and to experience it day in and day out was something different. I have, to be honest, hated the weather. It made me somewhat depressed. It made getting up from the bed and getting out of the house difficult some days. It was cold and grey, and people walked past you on the streets with heads hung low. They rarely made eye contact. It seemed like people were unfriendly, but you really know that they wanted to avoid the rain getting into their eyes.
I never got used to the rain, but I soon fell in love with Glasgow.
Living in Glasgow
Throughout my stay in Glasgow, I had moved four times to four different apartments, all on the same street – High Street. From there, it was easy to navigate around the city centre. I simply drew five lines on an imaginary board in my head. These five lines became the five streets that bind together to form the rest of my two and ½ years.
I enjoyed my first haggis at a pub located 100 metres down the street. During lunch hour, I had regularly devoured the most authentic Chinese noodle soup in Glasgow, in a tiny restaurant further up. A five-minute walk up Ingram Street brought me to a cafe where I had my daily cup of latte (large) until I bought myself my own espresso machine. I regularly walked to Argyle Street to do some shopping and sometimes, even further until I reached Glasgow Green. On days when the sun came out, I relished at the sight of buskers on Buchanan Street. When I needed a release after project submissions, we went to a karaoke club on Sauchiehall Street and screamed out Eye of the Tiger.
Travel tips and costs
I cannot advise on the cost of living in Glasgow, but here are some numbers to help you make a comparison to things that you are familiar with.
I paid £82 a week for student accommodation for a room in a flat for six people. I thought this was affordable at that time, but according to a German friend of mine, it was freaking expensive!
There are few backpacker hostels in Glasgow. Many travellers bypass Glasgow and head to Edinburgh, instead. You may find these hostels on Hostelworld.com, my go-to website for hostel searching. The hostels in Glasgow tend to have terrible reviews. Airbnb is a good alternative and prices start from £40 a night.
If you come to Glasgow solely for travelling and want to know the city, I recommend couch-surfing. The couch-surfing community in Glasgow is quite big, and they do regularly meet up for drinks. Many members are actively hosting, so it should not be too difficult to get a place to stay. When I was living there, I hosted a lot as well and had made a few good friends. I also highly recommend Dumbleflips Free Walking Tours on the couch-surfing website. The walk was enjoyable and fun, but I did recently hear from him that he was cancelling them due to health reasons.
Food-wise, a large latte cost me £3.20. A Daily Specials Pie at a regular pub cost £9. At Weatherspoons, one of my favourite pub franchises that offers cheaper meals, a Daily Deal Meal with a drink cost roughly £6 – £8. In Glasgow, Asian sit-in restaurants are expensive. A bowl of noodle soup generally cost £8 – £11, however, the hybrid Asian fusion ones that I dislike, are even more costly but less satisfying. I fell in love with a small and cheap Indian take-out restaurant that is worth the visit if you miss Indian food.
The subway that runs in the city centre cost £4 for an All-Day Ticket and £3.20 for a single – journey. It is very convenient, but it gets pricey after a couple of weeks. You may, instead, save on the cost by taking the bus for as cheap as £1 one – way, or by walking. I enjoyed walking in Glasgow despite the constant drizzle. I believe that is the best way to know a city.
One of my favourite things about Scotland? – The free-entry to museums. I spent many afternoons at Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, getting lost in the large architecture building. The museum is situated within the compounds of the Kelvingrove Park, where I sat alone on benches watching people go by. In the summers, the park fills up with people as many outdoor events are hosted there.
Glasgow is the birthplace of Mackintosh, the Scottish architect, designer and artist whose masterpiece was the Glasgow School of Art (GSA). The Mackintosh is known for its influence of Scottish baronial architecture, art nouveau ironwork motifs, and attention to details. When in Glasgow, do check out the legacy of Charles Mackintosh. The GSA organizes architectural walking tours that cost £19 for a ticket.
Each September, Glasgow hosts the Glasgow Doors Open Days Festival. Annually, the public is given access to over 100 historic buildings in the city, with the mission to broaden awareness of a rich built & cultural heritage.
Finally, we arrive at my favourite topic-music. Glasgow, as you probably already heard, is famous for its live music scene. New bands get discovered here regularly. I just found out that the band, Texas started in Glasgow. I used to listen to them when I was young and when I get that feeling. Pubs have regular open mic nights and play hosts to live bands every other weekend. If pubs are not really your style, head over to Buchanan Street in the summer to watch the buskers sprout like mushrooms after the rain. I love it and miss it so much!
Districts and suburbs
City centre
George Square is the heart of the city. Toward the south and west, the shopping districts of my five lines (refer above) are Argyle Street, Buchanan Street and Sauchiehall Street. As it is with cities, the shopping malls, restaurants and cultural venue reside around these areas. Go here for shopping, souvenirs, food, people-watching, buskers and to soak in the life of the city.
Merchant City
Merchant city was named after the wealthy city merchants who used to live here in the 18th and 19th centuries. It is the centre of the growing cultural quarter of Glasgow, which houses art galleries, workshops, art studios and production spaces. Here in Trongate lies the oldest surviving music hall in the world, the Britannia Panopticon. Go here for art, cool cafes and the quirky but highly recommended shows at the Sharmanka Kinetic Theater. I did not understand the show, but I liked it!
West End
The West End is a bohemian district famous for its cafés, tearooms, boutiques, restaurants, thrift shops, and second-hand bookstores. It houses the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Park, the Botanic Gardens, and the University of Glasgow. Byres Road is especially popular with tourists. Here, hipster-style cafés sprout up every now and then. Go here for second-hand shopping, bohemian teashops, quirky cafés, museums and parks.
East End
East End is home to the famous Glasgow Barrowland Market, ‘The Barras’, Glasgow Green, and the Glasgow Necropolis. This area is the least explored by tourists. Go here for the weekend market, get lost in the large park and wander into the cemetery. Be careful here as I have heard of people being robbed in the neighbourhood.
South Side
The south side is predominantly a residential area, but houses among others, Mackintosh Scotland Street School Museum, the House for An Art Lover, the Burrell Collection, and the Glasgow Science Centre. Go here for the many public parks, museums, and the National Football Stadium, Hampden Park, which hosted the Commonwealth Games in 2014.
Staying safe in Glasgow
Some neighbourhoods in Glasgow city tend to be sketchier than others. In my opinion, reading up on the crime statistics before you travel is not one way of preparing for a trip. Nonetheless, it does not hurt to know what you should and should not do in Glasgow, as well as which places to avoid. Unlike Barcelona, where crime tends to favour toward pickpocketing, in the city of Glasgow civilians get rob at knifepoint. This was only a story to me until it happened to a close friend of mine. The robber held a knife to her throat and told her to give up all her valuables. Crime such as these do not happen everywhere, and it is generally safe in the city centre and in tourist areas where there are more people around.
As a rule of thumb, the further east you go, the more careful you have to be, especially in quieter areas. There also tend to be sketchy figures lurking around the Glasgow train station. I never felt comfortable walking there at nights, but I try to avoid them altogether.
Highlights of (my) life in Glasgow
1 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum and Kelvingrove Park
Getting lost in the museum on rainy afternoons, having coffee in the café while watching the organ recital, strolling through the park people-watching, and having picnics there in summer. Free – entry.
2 Favourite tea shop in Glasgow – Tchai Ovna
One day, I found a little tea shop two streets away from the Kelvingrove Art Gallery. They offer a menu of teas from all over the world, as well as serve vegetarian/vegan dishes. They also provide shisha, which must be smoked outdoors. Some evenings, they host live acoustic music and poetry readings.
3 Buskers on Buchanan Street
Rain or shine, buskers are a regular sight on Buchanan Street. In the summer, they swell in numbers. For every 100 metres, you will be spoilt for choice. Listen to all of them.
4 Malaysian/Asian Food
Yes, they are expensive but still cheaper than cooking (if you only do it once or twice). The last time I dined at Banana Leaf off Sauchiehall Street, they had just undergone an upscale revamp. I think the food is delicious and somewhat authentic.
5 Pub food and haggis
Haggis, that weird dish that I thought I would have hated. I fell in love at first bite. Usually served with turnips and mashed potatoes – hence, Haggis, Neeps and Tatties. If you only had one chance to try them, I would recommend going to the authentic pubs. Here is a good one.
6 Breakfast at the cafes in Merchant City
My favourites are the Trans-Europe cafe and Café Gandolfi. Café Gandolfi is more costly, and the serving sizes are smaller. Both places serve lovely coffees, great Scottish All-Day Breakfasts and great warm ambience.
7 Favourite pub/bar for music and drinks
Maggie Mays on Argyle Street plays really loud but very cool songs. They also have delicious cocktails and a dance floor in the basement.
8 Favourite Middle Eastern restaurant
Babylon. This joint sits right across the river from High Street. I still dream of the succulent kebabs and warm rice with butter. They offer huge portions with reasonable prices.
9 Cheapest but most delicious Indian take-out
Banana Leaf behind Kelvingrove Art Gallery. Not to be confused with the Malaysian restaurant on Sauchiehall Street. The food is divine and most importantly, so cheap. The dine-in ambience is non-existent as they cater to take-outs. Do not let this stop you from entering, though. It is the best!
10 Doors Open Day in September
If you are ever in Glasgow in September, do not miss the chance to explore the city chambers or the GSA or attend talks and exhibitions on the heritage of the city. It only happens once a year!
11 Karaoke nights!
Not so popular in Glasgow and probably not something you might want to do if you are travelling through. However, I have found karaoke to be one of the best ice-breaking activities to do with fellow hostel mates. This is especially true if neither one of you wants to go clubbing or drinking. I have a story where I miraculously found myself a karaoke-gang in every hostel and city that I visited when I travelled through Eastern Europe!
12 Glasgow Holi One
The Holi One that became famous in other cities did find its way to Glasgow one drizzly day in summer. I went to one, it was not great, but it seemed like this may be the closest one can get to the original Holi festival in India – in Glasgow.
13 The Commonwealth Games 14′
As the excitement grew in the city over preparations for the Games, I wanted to be a part of it, so I applied for a part-time shift that had me rotating between the different venues. Some days, I served food to the volunteers and armed forces. On other days, I flipped burgers at the Hampden Stadium, where the Closing Ceremony took place. That night, I served canapés to the VIPs in the private rooms. I have to admit, I knew nothing about who these people were. Later in the evening, I was aghast when I found out that I had been trying to persuade the President of Kenya to ”absolutely HAVE to try these Haggis Bon Bons!”
Disclaimer: I had no training whatsoever in the hospitality or service industry. My sister, who studied Hospitality in France, later told me kindly, “You’re supposed to shut your damn mouth when serving canapés!”
(My) Other Highlights Outside of Glasgow
1 Driving and camping through Isle of Skye, Lewis and Harris
Breathtaking views! Word of advice. We forgot repellent when we went camping in August. These parts are notorious for the midges. We ended up reading in the tent, instead of playing the guitar out in nature like we had intended to.
2 Climbing Ben Lomond in the worst weather possible
We did not check the weather forecast before we went. A 3 to 5-hour hike up a mountain famous for its VIEWS should only be worth taking if you can actually see the views.
3 The Edinburgh Fringe Festival
This annual festival happens in August. This is that time of the year when Edinburgh city centre fills up with tourist, and the locals retreat into the outskirts. I have enjoyed walking along the Royal Mile and watching the street performers.
4 Trace Bundy’s concert
Why not?
5 Three hour train journey to Oban just to have seafood!
Oban is famous for its seafood. I have been here three times in the two years that I was living in Scotland. Almost every restaurant here serves seafood, but the best is hands down the green shed right at the end of the harbour.
6 The view from Arthur’s Seat
Arthur’s Seat seats right in the middle of Edinburgh city centre. The hike up is gentle and easy to do even for people with low fitness levels. The view at the top of the hill is totally worth it. I remember losing my way once when I was coming down alone and got stuck on a steep slope.
7 Walking in grey Aberdeen
Aberdeen gave new meaning to the colour grey. Unlike Glasgow, which despite its grey skies, boasts brownish sandstone buildings, the buildings in Aberdeen were grey as grey could be. I am not exaggerating when I say, I could not even see the buildings when I had first come out of the train station. Thankfully, a friend of mine who was staying there showed me around the other parts of Aberdeen, which happily had more colour.
8 Riding a boat on Loch Lomond
I was couch-surfing in Loch Lomond with some friends that I met through Workaways.net. Our host, Michael kindly offered to show us the Loch on his boat. I was amazed that he knew the names and history of even the tiniest islands that sit on the lake.
9 Exploring Dundee through a Smartphone app
I was in Dundee for a conference when I met a guy who designs apps and games for work. He had collaborated with the local heritage council to create an interactive app that enabled the user to learn about the history of the city as they follow the instructions on the screen.
Last words
Writing about Scotland brings back really fond memories for me.
I think the country is beautiful and the people are genuinely the nicest that I have ever met in my life. I miss the city, the food, and the Glaswegian accent. There really is no place like it, and it was an honour to have called it home.